How To Repair Small Blemishes Before Painting Cabinets

If you've noticed the cost of new appliances, countertops, and cabinets, it'due south no surprise that renovating a kitchen is one of the virtually expensive remodeling projects. While few homeowners find means to boost the look of a dated refrigerator or tired granite, transforming a kitchen past freshening the cabinets that make up virtually of the room's visual space is entirely within reach. But there'southward more to the job than buying a gallon of your favorite color.

Read our footstep-by-step instructions and sentry good painter Mauro Henrique demonstrate how to go the job washed right.

How Much Does information technology Cost to Paint Kitchen Cabinets?

Renovating a kitchen is ane of the most expensive remodeling projects that yous tin can take on, and replacing the cabinets can account for nearly forty pct of that cost.

Cabinets for a ten-by 12-pes kitchen tin can hands top $5,000—and your new cabinets may really exist of lower quality than the ones you're replacing. On the other manus, a few fresh coats of paint can get a long manner toward transforming your existing cabinets for a fraction of that price. In fact, the price of painting should be no more than than about $200, plus a weekend or two of your time.

Should I Paint My Cabinets?

Before y'all caput out to the paint shop, however, examine your cabinets to see if they can exist resuscitated in the first place. Even the highest-quality paint chore can't revive inexpensive cabinets that have grown delicate with age. Sparse veneers peel or delaminate, particleboard chiffonier bottoms or shelves sag or break, and hanging runway come loose. If these are the issues you're dealing with, you'd really exist better off replacing your kitchen cabinets.

Assuming that everything is nonetheless in fine shape and good working order, let's examine some of the questions you'll demand to accost before y'all commencement repainting your kitchen cabinets.

What Type of Paint Do I Need for Cabinets?

Oil or latex?

Latex paints take been improving steadily, leading some pros to give up oil-based paints entirely. Because they dry apace and clean up with water, latex paints are more convenient than oil-based paints. Merely many pros nevertheless favor oil-based topcoats, arguing that they form a harder, more durable paint pic and level out to a smoother finished surface. Latex paints also accept longer (up to three weeks) than oil-based paints to fully cure. In the meantime, they're susceptible to damage.

Lesser line: Either oil or latex will provide a good stop. If you do utilize a latex paint, make certain it's a 100 percent acrylic formulation, which offers greater durability and adhesion than vinyl acrylic paints.

Brush or Spray Pigment?

A sprayed-on finish is the smoothest option, but there's a learning bend for doing it properly. You'll besides likely need to rent the spray equipment, which drives up your costs, and you'll have to mask off all the areas in the kitchen that could accidentally go sprayed, including countertops, cabinet interiors, and appliances, which is a fourth dimension-consuming process.

For these reasons, we recommend you opt for using loftier-quality brushes instead. Invest in a good, three- to four-inch-wide square castor, whose straight ends will brand short work of large, flat panels, also equally an angled brush in the two½- or 3-inch-wide range, which volition help you go paint into the corners of doors with molding and can glaze door frames in one pass. Latex paint should be applied with a synthetic bristle brush, which doesn't absorb water; oil-based paint should exist applied with a natural-bristle brush.

Can y'all just paint over cabinets or should you strip them?

When the existing finish is a clear coat, the all-time course of action is to strip the terminate downwardly to the bare wood before painting. This eliminates a potential adhesion problem between the one-time finish and the new paint.

But while stripping may be the platonic for purists, it's not ever practical or absolutely necessary. A thorough cleaning followed by lite sanding should be plenty to fix the surface for new paint.

Regular or faux finish?

If yous're open up to spicing up your kitchen's expect, incorporating a faux stop can transform its fashion into shabby chic, rustic, provincial, or modern. Crackling glaze, which is available at paint stores, tin, with very niggling effort, give your cabinets a weathered wait. Just apply the glaze over a dry base of operations coat, brushing in only one direction (thick for large cracks, sparse for fine cracks), and let it dry. Finish with a flat topcoat of the base of operations color brushed on perpendicular to the glaze. The paint volition beginning to form cracks as it dries, a process that takes nearly an hour.

Another rustic style is the distressed wait, which doesn't crave a special paint. This finish is made upward of layered colors and spattered dark paint. When the pigment is dry, to reveal the colors underneath, distress the finish past hitting it with a chain and lightly sanding in the spots where the cabinets become the nigh use.

Similarly, the antiqued, slowly aged look can be achieved with some paint magic. Simply dip the tip of a paintbrush in a color lighter than the cabinets and dab the excess onto a material until the brush is almost dry out, then lightly graze the surface of the detail trim, corners, and seams.

On the other end of the spectrum is a high-gloss finish, which will transform your kitchen into a polished, modern space. To shine up your cabinets, paint a high-gloss clear acrylic varnish over your final glaze. This technique will add depth to the color and cover the surface of your kitchen with a glassy sheen.

Steps for Painting Cabinets

1. Prep the room

A successful paint task lies in diligent prep work, and the first few steps are focused on prepping the room and cabinets for painting.

• Start past emptying the cabinets, immigration off the counters, and removing any freestanding appliances.
• Relocate tables and other piece of furniture to some other room.
• Record rosin paper over the countertops and flooring, and, to protect the rest of the firm from dust and fumes, tape plastic sheeting over the backsplash, windows, stock-still appliances, and interior doorways.
• Mask off the wall around the cabinets.
• Gear up upwards a worktable for painting doors, drawers, and shelves.

TIP: Gear up a DIY Paint Station

Brown Bird Pattern

This makeshift jig provides access to all sides of a cabinet door to reduce downtime during drying. Hither's how to fix it upward:

• Span a pair of 2x4s at eye level between two ladders.
• Screw eye hooks into 1 end of a 2x4, where doors will be painted, and at the other stop, spiral hooks into both 2x4s to hang painted doors from.
• Add corresponding hooks to the top edges of upper cabinet doors and the bottoms of lower doors and drawers, where the holes left backside won't exist visible.

two. Remove the doors, drawers, and shelves

Gregory Nemec

• Be sure to mark each drawer front and door with a marker to forbid mixing up the doors. The best place for this mark is backside the hinge location.
• Back out the hinge screws from the cabinet frame and remove the doors.
• Working from left to correct, pinnacle to bottom, label each i with a numbered slice of tape. Also, number the edges of cabinet shelves and the bottoms of drawers.
• Set bated the shelf-hanging hardware.
• At your worktable, remove the pulls and hinges and save what's beingness reused.
• On the doors, transfer the number from the tape to the exposed woods nether ane hinge.
• Cover it with fresh tape.

iii. Clean all the surfaces

• Clean the cabinet by spraying it with a degreaser solution and wiping it down with a rag. This removes all the oils and grease that could prevent a perfect finish. If ordinary cleaners aren't effective, consider using a stronger cleaner like trisodium phosphate (TSP), which is sold at hardware and paint stores. Just brand sure you follow the safety precautions on the container.
• Once all the cabinet pieces are make clean, rinse them thoroughly with water and permit them dry.

4. Prep the boxes

• Open up the windows for ventilation and put on safety gear. Using an abrasive pad dipped in a liquid deglosser, scrub down all of the surfaces.
• Concur a rag underneath to catch drips. Before the deglosser evaporates, speedily wipe abroad the residue with another clean, deglosser-dampened rag.
• If you're relocating the hardware, fill the onetime screw holes with a two-role polyester wood or autobody filler.
• It sets in about 5 minutes, then mix only small batches. The filler shrinks a bit, so overfill the holes slightly.
• Every bit soon as it sets, remove the backlog with a sharp pigment scraper. If information technology hardens completely, sand information technology shine.
• Utilise a foam sanding block to scuff the surfaces of the chiffonier, drawers, and doors. This is a light sanding meant to requite the primer something to adhere to, so don't sand to the bare wood. Use a tack textile to remove the sanding dust before moving on.
• Vacuum the cabinets inside and out to brand sure no bits of dust mar the finish, and so rub them downward with a tack textile for extra measure.

5. Prime the cabinet boxes

Kolin Smith

Now it's time for the primer. If the cabinets are heavily stained, use a stain-blocking primer, which dries quickly and seals knots and other surface defects that might bleed through the topcoats. In most situations, however, stain-blockers shouldn't be necessary, and an oil-based or 100 percentage acrylic latex primer volition work merely fine.

• Cascade some primer into the paint tray and load the roller and brush. Using the brush along the edges and tight spots, and the roller on the large, flat surfaces, coat the cabinet, doors, and drawer fronts with a glaze of primer.
• Starting at the top of the cabinet, brush on the primer across the grain, so "tip-off"—pass the brush lightly over the moisture finish in the direction of the grain. Always tip-off in a unmarried stroke from one end to the other.
• Make sure to follow the underlying construction of the chiffonier or door with the brush. Where a rail butts into a stile, for instance, paint the track first, overlapping slightly onto the stile, then paint the stile earlier the overlap dries.
• While you're allowing the primer to dry, wash your brush and roller sleeve, and cascade the excess primer back into the tin earlier washing the paint tray.

6. Sand, caulk, and fill

Kolin Smith

• Afterward the primer is dry out, sand the flat surfaces with 220-grit newspaper.
• Sand any profiled surfaces with a medium-grit sanding sponge. The forest should end up feeling glass-smooth.
• Clasp a thin bead of latex caulk into whatsoever open seams. (The hole in a caulk tube'south tip should be no bigger than the tip of a abrupt pencil.)
• Pull the tip equally y'all go, so shine the caulk with a damp finger. Fill any small dents, scratches, or dings with vinyl spackle, smoothed flat with a putty pocketknife.
• Once the spackle is dry (nigh 60 minutes), sand once more with 220-grit paper, vacuum, and wipe with a tack cloth.
• With a spray can of fast-drying oil-based primer, spot-prime the spackle and whatever spots where the sandpaper has "burned through" the primer.
• Wait an hour, then sand the primer lightly with 280-grit newspaper.
• Vacuum all the surfaces, and wipe them with a tack material.

seven. Paint the cabinet boxes

Kolin Smith

You're finally set up to paint! If you lot're using roughly the same shade as the existing color, 2 coats ought to do the job. You might even get away with one. Painting over a night finish with a calorie-free color is tougher and could require three coats. Pause out a new brush for each coat.

• Pour some trim and cabinet enamel paint into the pigment tray and load the brush and roller with paint. Use the brush to cutting in along the edges, push the paint into the corners, and go out out roller strokes. Use the roller to utilize enamel pigment to the large flat surface where possible.
• For the cabinet interior, utilise the paint with a smooth-surface mini roller, which leaves a slightly bumpy, orange-peel texture.
• Cover the brush and roller with plastic bags to prevent them from hardening while you wait for the first coat to dry out.
• Between coats, sand the surfaces lightly, making sure to make clean up the debris afterward.
• Apply a second coat to the cabinet. This glaze should provide a perfect, consistent finish without any thin or low-cal areas where woods might show through.

eight. Prep, prime, and paint the doors, drawers, and shelves

The strategy for prepping, priming, and painting doors, drawers, and shelves is the aforementioned as for the cabinets, except that all the work is done on a table to reduce the chance of drips, runs, and sags.

• When painting paneled doors, start with the expanse effectually the panel.
• Then, practise the main field of the panel, and stop with the stiles and rails around the edges.
• Every bit you go along, wipe upwardly whatever paint that ends upwardly on next dry surfaces to eliminate the hazard of lap marks.

Tip: To speed up the drying fourth dimension for doors, you tin can twist two screw hooks into holes drilled in an inconspicuous door edge (the lower edge for bottom cabinets, the upper edge for top cabinets). Paint the door'due south outside face and let it dry for an 60 minutes while resting flat, and then tilt the door up onto its hooks and put a drywall screw into an existing hardware pigsty. Hold the tilted door up by the spiral and paint the door'southward back side.

• When you're washed painting, option up the door past the screw and one claw and hang both hooks on a sturdy clothes hanger.
• Suspend the door from a shower curtain rod or wearing apparel rod until it dries.

ix. Put dorsum all the pieces

Kolin Smith

• Once the second glaze dries, reattach the door and drawer fronts. Enjoy the fact that yous've given your kitchen cabinets a fresh new wait without investing a lot of time or money.
• Remove the tape over each door'south number, install the hinges and knob, and hang them in their original opening.
• Replace the drawer pulls (or add together new ones) and reinstall each drawer.

Shopping listing

• Degreaser spray
• Latex primer
• H2o-based trim and cabinet enamel paint
• Roller sleeves

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Tools

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/kitchens/21097083/how-to-paint-your-kitchen-cabinets

Posted by: alexanderotheamed.blogspot.com

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